Congratulations! Now it's more important than ever to prioritize your health and your baby's health. This includes your skin.

Unfortunately, not all skin care ingredients are safe for you and your baby, and this is not the time to try new things. Some products can be potentially harmful.
In this ultimate guide to pregnancy-safe skincare, you and I will navigate the world of beauty products. We'll make sure you maintain a skincare routine that works for you without any risk. We'll look at ingredients you should steer clear of and find safe alternatives that will keep your skin glowing and healthy.

Before we start, if you have a friend who is pregnant or trying to get pregnant, send her this article.

What to do BEFORE you are expecting

If you're planning to have a child, there are some medications and skincare products I recommend you stop right away- even if you're not pregnant yet.

Drugs like spironolactone or tretinoin, both used for acne, should be stopped the moment you're trying to get pregnant... if you're not sure what to do, talk to your doctor. You can also Google the risk classification of a drug; for example, spironolactone is classified as C which means " Risk cannot be ruled out" - definitely something to avoid.

Importance of pregnancy-safe skincare

Taking care of your skin during pregnancy is more than just a beauty routine; it's about safeguarding your health and your unborn child's well-being. Pregnancy brings numerous changes to a woman's body… the skin is no exception. Hormonal fluctuations can lead to various skin conditions, making it essential to use products that are safe and effective. By choosing pregnancy-safe skincare, you are prioritizing ingredients that will not harm your developing baby while still addressing your skin's unique needs.

In addition to protecting your baby, a well-thought-out skincare routine can contribute to your overall well-being during pregnancy. By making your skincare routine a priority, you can enjoy the process of nurturing your skin, boosting your confidence, and embracing the beauty of pregnancy. Italians say all the time that women during pregnancy are even more beautiful, so I want you to maximize that !

Understanding the changes in the skin during pregnancy

Pregnancy triggers a cascade of hormonal changes that can significantly affect the skin. For many women, increased blood flow, hormonal surges, and changes in oil production result in a radiant "pregnancy glow." However, this glow can also come with its fair share of challenges. Some women experience more oiliness, leading to breakouts, while others may develop dryness or sensitivity. Understanding these changes is crucial for selecting the right skincare products.

Another common skin change during pregnancy is the development of melasma, or the "mask of pregnancy." This condition is characterized by dark patches on the face, particularly on the cheeks, forehead, and upper lip. The increase in melanin production, driven by hormonal changes, can make these patches more pronounced. It’s essential to be proactive in managing pigmentation issues with safe and effective products to help maintain an even skin tone. Read till the end to find out how...

Stretch marks are yet another common concern during pregnancy. As the skin stretches to accommodate a growing belly, it can lead to the formation of these marks afterwards. While genetics play a significant role in their development, adopting a skincare routine that focuses on hydration and elasticity can help reduce their appearance. By understanding these changes, you can tailor your skincare regimen to address your unique needs effectively. Read below for stretch marks remedies.

Ingredients to avoid in skincare products during pregnancy

When it comes to skincare during pregnancy, knowledge is power. Several commonly used ingredients pose potential risks and should be avoided. Retinoids, which are derivatives of vitamin A, are often found in anti-aging products and acne treatments. While they are effective in promoting cell turnover and reducing fine lines, they can lead to birth defects when used in high doses. It’s vital to steer clear of products containing retinoids and opt for safe alternatives.

PRO TIP

Retinoids are a large family of compounds…don't just avoid retinol and tretinoin. Remember to also avoid other less common retinoid like adapalene, tazarotene, retinaldehyde.

Retinoids should be avoid during both pregnancy and breastfeeding as they can cause malformations in the fetus.

Have you been applying retinoids ? If so, stop immediately and consult your physician.The good news is that the chance of topical retinoids to be absorbed in the bloodstream is extremely low. Most likely your baby will be fine. While the risks are mostly associated with oral retinoids, you still want to avoid topical retinoids.

Another ingredient to avoid during pregnancy is Salicylic acid, popular ingredient in acne treatments. While some studies suggest that low concentrations may be acceptable, it’s best to consult with your healthcare provider to determine what’s safe for you (= I would avoid it).

Other ingredients to avoid include hydroquinone, which is used for hyperpigmentation, and essential oils that may not be safe during pregnancy (but if you've been following my work you're not using them anyway 😉.

Always read labels carefully and familiarize yourself with ingredients.

When it comes to sunscreens , opt for the safest option which is mineral sunscreen.

Essential skincare routine for pregnant women

Your skincare routine during pregnancy doesn’t have to be complicated.

Start with our micellar water gentle cleanser that removes impurities without stripping your skin of its natural oils. In general, look for fragrance-free formulas to minimize irritation. Cleansing twice a day with the wrong cleanser can and will dry out your skin.

Following up with a good hydrating serum is crucial to keep your skin hydrated and supple. Choose one that contains safe ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, which helps retain moisture. For example, the Luisa True Skincare OG Hyaluronic acid is safe and perfect to keep the skin soft and protected during pregnancy.

Moisturizing is a another crucial step . Opt for a lightweight, pregnancy-safe moisturizer that hydrates without clogging pores. Ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and natural oils can provide deep hydration and help maintain your skin’s elasticity. Additionally, consider incorporating a nourishing facial oil if your skin feels particularly dry or tight. Applying a generous layer of moisturizer at night can significantly enhance your skin's repair process while you sleep, leaving you with a healthy, radiant glow in the morning.

If you're prone to dryness or irritation, natural oils can serve as excellent moisturizers. Almond oil, jojoba oil, and olive oil are all rich in vitamins and fatty acids that help nourish and protect the skin. These oils can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with your favorite moisturizer for added hydration.

On top of everything, apply a spf. Protecting your skin from UV rays is vital, especially during pregnancy, as your skin can be more sensitive to sunlight. Opt for a broad-spectrum mineral sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher. Apply it daily, even on cloudy days, to shield your skin from harmful rays and prevent pigmentation issues. Here's a list of my favorite spf .

Sun Protection During Pregnancy

Sun protection is an essential aspect of skincare, especially during pregnancy when your skin may be more sensitive and prone to pigmentation issues. Hormonal changes can increase your risk of developing dark spots and melasma, making it crucial to shield your skin from harmful UV rays. Start by using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30. Look for mineral-based sunscreens containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, as they are considered safer options during pregnancy and provide effective protection against UVA and UVB rays.

In addition to sunscreen, wearing protective clothing can further safeguard your skin from sun exposure. Hats with wide brims, sunglasses, and lightweight long-sleeved clothing can help minimize direct sunlight on your skin. Try to seek shade whenever possible, especially during peak sun hours between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. These small adjustments can make a significant difference in preventing sun damage and minimizing the risk of pigmentation changes during pregnancy.

Remember to reapply sunscreen every two hours, especially if you’re spending extended periods outdoors. If you’re swimming or sweating, consider using water-resistant formulas for added protection. Keeping your skin protected from the sun not only helps maintain an even skin tone but also promotes overall skin health, allowing you to enjoy your pregnancy with confidence.

Treating Common Skin Concerns During Pregnancy - Acne, Stretch Marks, and Hyperpigmentation

You may encounter common skin concerns such as acne, stretch marks, and hyperpigmentation. Each of these issues can be frustrating, but understanding how to address them can help you lessen this frustration.

For acne/oily skin, we want to avoid salicylic acid. We can replace it with azelaic acid, antibiotics or benzoyl peroxide. Make sure to see a physician before starting anything new.

Stretch marks are another concern that many pregnant women face as their bodies change. While genetics play a significant role in their development, keeping your skin well-hydrated can help improve its elasticity. Regularly applying oils or creams containing silicones and hyaluronic acid can nourish the skin and potentially reduce the severity of stretch marks. Consistency is key; consider creating a routine where you apply these products daily, focusing on areas prone to stretching, such as the belly, hips, and thighs.

Here's what to do for stretch marks:

1) Avoid excessive weight gain. Somewhere around 20 to 25 lbs is normal. If you gain more weight than that, your chances of getting stretch marks once you lose it are higher.

2) Keep your skin elastic by taking collagen daily or eating the right amount of proteins.

3) Keep the skin moisturized by applying oils and/or vitamin E. While oils won't make your stretch marks go away (!!!), they can help keep the skin soft and elastic which in turn makes them less visible, especially when they're still red.

4) Use silicones based products. These are anti scars gels or patches and the only effective skincare treatment for stretch marks. This one is great if you don't know where to start from.

5) Hyaluronic acid is another great ingredient to maintain skin elasticity and promote collagen production, both necessary to limit stretch marks.

Hyperpigmentation, often caused by hormonal changes and sun, can be disheartening for many women. To combat this, opt for effective but gentle exfoliation and brightening products with ingredients like vitamin C or licorice root extract, which can help even out skin tone (both in the Luisa True Skincare vitamin C serum) . Always remember to use sunscreen, as sun exposure can exacerbate pigmentation issues. If your skin concerns persist or worsen, consulting a dermatologist can provide additional guidance tailored to your specific needs during pregnancy.

Tips for Maintaining Healthy Skin During Pregnancy

Maintaining healthy skin during pregnancy involves more than just selecting the right products; it also encompasses lifestyle adjustments that can enhance your skin's appearance. One of the most important aspects is staying hydrated. Drinking plenty of water helps keep your skin plump and radiant and supports overall body function. Consider incorporating hydrating foods such as fruits and vegetables into your diet.

Additionally, a balanced diet rich in vitamins and minerals can have a profound impact on your skin. Focus on foods high in antioxidants, such as berries, leafy greens, and nuts, which can help protect your skin from free radicals. Omega-3 fatty acids, found in fish, flaxseeds, and walnuts, can also promote healthy skin by reducing inflammation and improving elasticity. Prioritize whole foods over processed options to support both your skin and your growing baby. If you choose to eat fish, opt for low mercury options like sardines, herrings, and shrimps

Lastly, managing stress is crucial for maintaining healthy skin during pregnancy. Elevated stress levels can lead to breakouts and exacerbate skin conditions. Consider incorporating relaxation techniques such as yoga, meditation, or deep-breathing exercises into your routine.

Conclusion: Prioritizing Safety and Self-Care During Pregnancy

As you navigate the beautiful journey of pregnancy, prioritizing your skin health is a vital aspect of self-care that should not be overlooked. Understanding the importance of pregnancy-safe skincare ensures that you can maintain your radiant glow while protecting both yourself and your developing baby from harmful ingredients. By taking the time to learn about your skin’s changes and the products that suit your needs, you can create a routine that fosters both safety and effectiveness.

Pregnancy is a time of transformation.. your skincare routine and nutrition should change, too. Embrace these alternatives, practice sun protection, and address common concerns . Your body is doing incredible work, and nurturing yourself will empower you as you prepare for motherhood.

Ultimately, this journey is about finding balance and prioritizing what works best for you. With the right knowledge and resources, you can enjoy a fulfilling skincare routine that supports your health and beauty throughout pregnancy. Embrace this period of growth and change with confidence, knowing that you are taking exceptional care of both yourself and your little one.

Lastly if you found value in this article, please share it with someone you love and let me know by leaving a comment below.

Exfoliation is a crucial step in any skincare regimen, yet it is one of the most misunderstood practices...For years I got exfoliation all wrong ! My biggest mistake was to use products and tools that were unbelievably harsh like these :

In this post, we'll explore the right way to exfoliate the skin drawing on scientific principles and evidence-based practices to offer a real perspective on how to achieve radiant, healthy skin through exfoliation.

Introduction: The Science of Exfoliation

The human skin, our largest organ, is a dynamic system constantly undergoing renewal. At the heart of this process lies exfoliation, the shedding of dead skin cells from the surface. This natural desquamation process typically takes about 28 days in young, healthy skin. However, as we age or encounter various environmental factors, this cycle can slow down, leading to the accumulation of dead skin cells. This build-up can cause dullness, congestion, and an uneven skin tone.

Exfoliation, whether through physical, chemical, or enzymatic methods, aids in accelerating this natural process, revealing the fresher, younger cells beneath. But how do we ensure that we're exfoliating effectively and safely? Understanding the science behind exfoliation can help us make informed decisions that go beyond the typical advice found online.

The 3 Types of Exfoliation: Physical, Chemical, and Enzymatic

Physical Exfoliation:

Physical exfoliation involves the mechanical removal of dead skin cells through abrasive materials. Common examples include scrubs with small granules, microdermabrasion devices, and cleansing brushes. The mechanism is straightforward: friction created by the abrasive particles dislodges the outer layer of dead skin cells, revealing smoother skin underneath.

However, not all physical exfoliants are created equal. The size, shape, and hardness of the exfoliating particles play a significant role in determining their efficacy and safety. For example, walnut shell or coffee powder, once popular, has fallen out of favor due to its irregular shape, which can cause micro-tears in the skin. The same happens wit salt and sugar scrubs which do more harm then good.

Should you avoid physical exfoliation?

Not necessarily.

It's important to choose the right product though. We want to look at materials with perfectly shaped round particles that are not too abrasive. There are 3 products I recommend if you want to start exfoliating the skin through physical exfoliation:

- The first is this. These are alumina particles that you can add to any cleanser or oil. They're extremely effective while still being gentle. I use this product once every 2 week on my face.

-The second is the Luisa True Skincare powder cleanser with pumice. This offers such a gentle exfoliation that can be used daily.

-The third is this body scrub from The Necéssaire. I use this once a week in the shower. It's made with pumice crystals just like the Luisa True Skincare powder cleanser. 

Other exfoliants smoother and gentler are milled jojoba beads that offer effective exfoliation without damaging the skin.

Pros and Cons:

Physical exfoliation provides immediate results and a satisfying experience - I love touching my skin right after exfoliating!

This kind of exfoliation can be too harsh for sensitive skin types or individuals with conditions like rosacea, where the friction can worsen redness and irritation.

Chemical Exfoliation:

Chemical exfoliants work by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to be easily sloughed away. The most common chemical exfoliants are Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), and Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs).

AHAs (e.g., glycolic acid, lactic acid) are water-soluble acids derived from fruits and milk. They work on the surface of the skin to dissolve the intercellular glue that holds dead cells together. Glycolic acid, with its small molecular size, penetrates more deeply, making it highly effective. Lactic acid, being gentler, is often preferred for sensitive skin.

BHAs (e.g., salicylic acid) are oil-soluble, making them ideal for treating acne-prone skin. There's only one BHA you need to now and it's Salicylic acid. Because of its non polar chemical structure, it penetrates the pores, dissolving sebum and preventing clogging, which helps reduce acne and blackheads. Let me save you some money: no need for BHAs unless you have oily skin or enlarged pores.

PHAs (e.g., gluconolactone) are newer, less common acids. They have a larger molecular structure, making them less likely to penetrate deeply, which reduces irritation. PHAs also offer additional moisturizing benefits, making them suitable for dry or sensitive skin. Don't bother with these before trying AHAs and BHAs.

Pros and Cons:

Chemical exfoliants offer a controlled and uniform exfoliation compared to physical methods. They can be tailored to different skin types and concerns, making them versatile. However, improper use, such as over-exfoliation or using a product with the wrong pH, can lead to irritation, sensitivity, and a compromised skin barrier.

Just don't overdo it.

Enzymatic Exfoliation

Enzymatic exfoliation uses natural enzymes to break down the keratin protein in dead skin cells. Common enzymes used include papain (from papaya), bromelain (from pineapple), and pumpkin enzymes. These enzymes work by digesting the proteins that hold dead skin cells together, allowing for gentle exfoliation.

Pros and Cons:

Enzymatic exfoliation is often touted as the gentlest form of exfoliation. It is particularly suitable for sensitive skin, as it does not involve the mechanical action of physical exfoliants or the potentially irritating effects of chemical acids. However, enzymatic exfoliants can be less effective on tougher, more resilient skin types. In other words, the science just isn't there. There's basically no proof these enzymes actually exfoliate the skin, and for this reason, I don't recommend them. 

Correct exfoliation for your skin type

One of the most critical aspects of exfoliation is tailoring the method to your skin type. Different skin types respond differently to exfoliation, and understanding these nuances can make the difference between glowing skin and compromised barrier.

Sensitive Skin: Sensitive skin is prone to redness, irritation, and inflammation. For this skin type, it's crucial to avoid harsh physical exfoliants and high concentrations of chemical exfoliants. Mild AHA like lactic acid can be beneficial, but frequency should be limited or adjusted to your specific sensitivity.

Oily and Acne-Prone Skin:  BHAs, particularly salicylic acid, are ideal for this skin type due to their ability to penetrate the pores and reduce sebum production. Physical exfoliants can also be used, but avoid over-scrubbing, which can stimulate excess oil production.

Dry and Dehydrated Skin: Dry skin requires careful handling to avoid further moisture loss. Lactic acid is an excellent choice as it exfoliates while providing hydration. Over-exfoliation can lead to a compromised barrier, so the frequency should be adjusted accordingly, and don't forget to use a moisturizer post-exfoliation

Combination Skin: A targeted approach works best—using BHAs on the T-zone and gentler exfoliants on the drier areas. Multimasking and spot treatments can also help balance the skin.

Hyperpigmentation and Aging Skin: Exfoliation plays a significant role in treating hyperpigmentation and signs of aging. AHAs, particularly glycolic acid, are highly effective in promoting cell turnover and fading dark spots. 

The Role of pH in Exfoliation

The pH is a critical factor in the effectiveness of exfoliants. Yet no one talks about it.

 For chemical exfoliants to work effectively, they need to be formulated at low pH. How low?

The lowest, the better even though we can't go below 3 for skincare products. This is a requirement, and here's why.

All acids are always in equilibrium between their undissociated and dissociated form, but only the undissociated form is able to penetrate the skin.  This means that the formulator's job is to make sure this undissociated form is prevalent in the product or it won't work. The way to control this factor is the pH. Every acid has a pKa value that correlates to the pH according to the The Henderson-Hasselbalch equation. This equation is

pH = pKa – log ([Acid]/[Salt])

In graphic terms:

In simple terms, this means that the lowest the pH the higher the amount of the undissociated form. 

Let's see an example.

Product A: 10% glycolic acid with a pH of 5

Vs.

Product B: 8% glycolic acid with a pH of 3.5

At first glance, you might think Product A (with the higher 10% concentration) is more powerful than Product B (with just 8% glycolic acid). However, the pH levels tell a different story.

Product A (10% Glycolic Acid, pH 5)
pH = 5
Glycolic acid's pKa is 3.83.

At pH 5, significantly less glycolic acid will be in its undissociated form, meaning the acid won’t be as effective at penetrating the skin.
According to  the Henderson-Hasselbalch equation:

pH = pKa - log ([Acid]/[Salt])

At a pH of 5, there will be less undissociated glycolic acid available. Only about 10-20% of the glycolic acid is in the undissociated form, so even though the concentration is higher, the product’s effectiveness will be less.

Product B (8% Glycolic Acid, pH 3.5)
pH = 3.5

At pH 3.5, the product is much closer to glycolic acid’s pKa (3.83). This means a much larger percentage of the glycolic acid—roughly 60-70%—is in its undissociated form, ready to penetrate the skin.
Despite having a lower acid concentration (8%), Product B will be much more effective than Product A because more of the glycolic acid is active and able to exfoliate (to come up with those percentages you need to solve the equation).

Exfoliation Myths

The internet is excellent at spreading misinformation on exfoliation. Let's debunk some myths together, shall we?

• Myth 1: The more exfoliation, the better. It's easy to fall into the trap of thinking that more exfoliation will lead to better skin. The truth is that over-exfoliating damages the skin...a lot! It basically leads to increased sensitivity, redness, and a compromised skin barrier.

• Myth 2: Exfoliation Thins the Skin. This is a common concern, but it's baseless. No skincare product will ever modify the anatomy or physiology of your skin, no matter how often you use it. Actually proper exfoliation, when done correctly and at the right frequency, promotes healthy cell turnover and thickens the epidermis over time. 

• Myth 3: Natural Exfoliants Are Always Better. The term "natural" is often perceived as  "better" or "safer," but this isn't always true . Some natural exfoliants, like crushed walnut shells, can be too harsh and cause micro-tears in the skin. 

How and how often should you exfoliate?

Good question! Finding the right frequency makes a difference between effective exfoliation and damaging one. Over-exfoliation can lead to a compromised skin barrier, while under-exfoliation can result in dullness and congestion.

Oily skin may benefit from more frequent exfoliation (e.g., 2 max 3 times a week), while sensitive skin may only tolerate exfoliation once every 2 weeks.

Mature skin  requires more frequent exfoliation to boost cell turnover, but it should be done gently to avoid irritation and never more than 2/3 times a week.

In general start with once a week and eventually increase as tolerated.
Monitor the skin for signs of over-exfoliation, such as redness, tightness, or peeling.
Always follow up with a moisturizer.

In fact, after exfoliation, the skin may be more prone to water loss, so it's important to replenish moisture levels. Look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and ceramides that help to hydrate and repair the skin barrier (all in our Essential Moisturizer).

Sunscreen Protection: Exfoliated skin is more susceptible to UV damage, making sunscreen a non-negotiable part of post-exfoliation care. A broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 should be applied daily.

Soothing Ingredients: Ingredients like vitamin E, bisabolol, and panthenol can help soothe any irritation and calm the skin after exfoliation.

 Exfoliants: conclusion

As a cosmetic formulator, I love the complexity of creating an effective exfoliant. It's not just about choosing the right active ingredients; it's more about creating a symphony—a well-balanced formulation that considers concentration, pH, stability, and the interplay with other ingredients.

Here's the exfoliant I created for Luisa True skincare. A 10% glycolic acid stabilized at pH 3.5 and coupled with soothing ingredients like panthenol and vitamin E.